In the ever-evolving conversation around clean beauty, few ingredients have sparked as much concern and confusion as PFAS.
Known as “forever chemicals” for their ability to persist in the environment and in the body, per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances have played a role in modern cosmetics for years, prized for their silky textures, water resistance, and long-wear performance.
Now, a new report from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration puts a sharper spotlight on how much we know (and don’t know) about their long-term effects. Ultimately, the FDA says it has inadequate data to determine the safety of PFAS in makeup, skincare, and nail products.
A Closer Look at PFAS Through a Regulatory Lens
Released under the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA), the congressionally mandated FDA report evaluates the use of PFAS added as ingredients to cosmetic products sold in the United States.
Based on product listings submitted to the FDA, 51 different PFAS are currently used in 1,744 cosmetic formulations. These chemicals often appear in products designed to last — such as waterproof mascaras, transfer-resistant foundations, nail topcoats, and makeup primers.
To focus its review, the FDA analyzed the 25 most commonly used PFAS, which together account for roughly 96 percent of PFAS intentionally added to cosmetics. Despite their prevalence, the agency found that toxicological data for most of these substances is either incomplete or entirely unavailable.
According to FDA Commissioner Marty Makary, M.D., M.P.H., the lack of robust, publicly available data significantly limits the agency’s ability to draw firm conclusions about the long-term effects of PFAS added to cosmetic products.
“Our scientists found that toxicological data for most PFAS are incomplete or unavailable, leaving significant uncertainty about consumer safety,” Makary says in a statement.
Safety Questions, Data Gaps, and Regulatory Limits
While five of the reviewed PFAS appeared to pose few concerns under their intended conditions of use, the safety of most could not be definitively established. One substance was flagged as having a potential safety issue, though even that assessment came with “significant remaining uncertainty.”
This gap isn’t necessarily due to inaction, but access. Much of the existing toxicology data on PFAS is not publicly available, making comprehensive safety assessments difficult.
The report does not conclude that PFAS in cosmetics are unsafe, but it makes clear that the absence of evidence is not the same as proof of safety.
The FDA emphasizes that this uncertainty underscores the need for further research — a position echoed across the scientific and regulatory communities.
At present there are no federal regulations restricting PFAS in cosmetic products, though several states and international bodies are moving toward stricter oversight of PFAS in consumer goods.
Still, the FDA maintains it will take action if emerging evidence points to safety risks. The agency plans to continue monitoring new scientific data and collaborating with the federal Centers for Disease Control and the Environmental Protection Agency to strengthen guidance across the food and consumer product supply chain.
According to the FDA, some common PFAS ingredients found in cosmetics include: polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), perfluorononyl dimethicone, trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, perfluorohexylethyl triethoxysilane, methyl perfluorobutyl ether, and methyl perfluoroisobutyl ether.