Nicole Shemwell is getting to the root of the matter.
When it comes to hair health, the focus is usually on shine, density, color, or style — but Shemwell wants to drive home the point that achieving that dream mane starts somewhere much deeper. The board-certified trichology educator and headspa founder is putting the spotlight on the scalp.
“Looking at the scalp will change how we look at hair,” Shemwell told about 70 licensed professionals at the recent Be+Well Beauty and Wellness Show in New York, all taking her master class Luxury at the Shampoo Bowl: Turning Scalp Treatments Into Scalable Income.
That philosophy guides everything she does, said Shemwell, who owns Advanced Hair Care & Wellness Spa in Jacksonville, FL. “We don’t cover up. We find the root.”
The scalp can reveal much more than what’s happening with the hair itself, she explained, and can offer clues about everything from gut health to allergies and diet.
Through teaching and promoting head spas — specialized services that focus on scalp treatments, exfoliation, and relaxation — Shemwell makes the scalp the main character.
Her method, practiced at her spa and taught to her students, begins with a more in-depth diagnosis about scalp health than what’s found in most salons.
Clients who are experiencing hair thinning or loss, alopecia, dryness, or scalp inflammation start with a detailed consultation and scalp analysis, often followed by bloodwork and a treatment plan designed to address the root cause of their concerns.
“It’s comprehensive,” Shemwell said. “I’m educating them about their scalp and helping them discover why something is happening. It’s not generic; it’s specific to that person. I’m taking into account their schedule, their home life, and how they manage stress. It all matters.”
Her standards require stylists to look for signs and symptoms they might not normally address. “We see redness on the scalp sometimes and avoid it,” she said. “We can’t overlook that.”
Cosmetology school curriculums generally put a stronger focus on topics other than scalp health, but Shemwell is seeing that shift in response to traction that trichology and scalp care is gaining in the beauty industry.
“Best believe it is changing,” Shemwell said. “Everybody is on alert about head spas and scalp care.”
For Shemwell, awareness is the first step. When inflammation or buildup goes untreated, it can disrupt the hair growth cycle, leading to dryness, breakage, and premature shedding. “I see it every day,” she said.
“When clients finally look at their scalp up close, it can be eye-opening. Some people realize they’ve been neglecting their scalp — and sometimes even themselves.”
That realization is why Shemwell emphasizes consultation and structure in every treatment plan. Each client moves through a defined framework that helps identify the root cause of their scalp concerns before treatment begins.
For Shemwell, the key to effective scalp care — and a profitable service model — is personalization. Instead of applying the same treatment to every client, she encourages stylists to create plans tailored to each scalp condition.
“Typically we’re not supposed to exfoliate the scalp if it’s inflamed. It’s like scrubbing sea salt on a cut,” she explained. “If someone has a red, bloody, or scabby scalp, we should refrain from practicing on that type of scalp and instead refer them to a dermatologist or physician.
“The point is approaching each client differently. That’s how you stand out.”
That level of personalization, Shemwell explained, creates opportunity for salons to build stronger client relationships and more sustainable revenue streams as educated professionals charge accordingly for their expertise.
Rather than offering one-off scalp treatments, she encouraged stylists to develop structured care plans and service packages that guide clients through multiple appointments.
Ultimately, she stressed, improving knowledge and options about scalp care can benefit a beauty professional and business in the best way possible — generating more revenue by meeting a real need.
“Clients need and want accountability. They want solutions. They want to be able to follow a path, a pattern that leads to change, and they’re looking to you as the expert.”